We've always got one eye on any new restaurants opening on the London food scene. Our editors are on the ball for the latest openings in each London neighbourhood, from Covent Garden restaurants to Shoreditch hotspots. For the ultimate list of places to eat in the city, check out our definitive guide to London's best restaurants. These are the places that we consider the crème de la crème, from generations-old spots that have stood the test of time and Michelin-starred dining rooms that get better each year to mind-blowing new openings from this list that we decided deserved a spot on the ultimate round-up of the best restaurants in London.
For new restaurants opening in London this year, we can expect follow-ups from some of the city's biggest-name chefs. In January, Tom Sellers will reopen Restaurant Story after closing for a multi-million-pound renovation, while Claude Bosi will open Lyonnaise restaurant Josephine. Later in the year, Endo Kazutoshi will open a rooftop sushi spot at The OWO and Akira Back will helm the restaurant at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair.
How we choose the tastiest new restaurant openings in London
The best new restaurants in London are the most exciting places to eat that have just opened in the capital city. Ranging from small affairs with daily changing menus from up-and-coming chefs to Michelin-starred spots with fresh new menus, these are London's new restaurants we've got our eye on right now.
Every restaurant on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has eaten at that restaurant. When choosing new restaurants, our editors consider both high-end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for stand-out dishes, a great location, warm service, and serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new restaurants open in London.
Best new London restaurants in April 2024
Oma, Borough Market
It’s no easy task introducing a new restaurant to Borough Market. The food market is one of London’s oldest, and each new foodie hotspot that opens up is subject to the criticism of the hordes of weekend foodies searching for the next best thing. But if anyone knows a thing or two about how to cause a buzz in the London food scene, it's David Carter (Smokestak founder and co-founder of Manteca, two of the capital’s best-loved restaurants). Along with a team of chefs from the likes of Sabor, Kiln and E5 Bakehouse, Carter has created a menu of Greek-inspired dishes that bring the flavour of summer and the sea to central London. Inside, tables are arranged around an open kitchen, with flickering candles casting a romantic glow over the pared-back dining room. Dishes are split into sections: spreads for dipping fluffy hunks of bread into, crudo for zingy bowls of fresh fish, small plates and skewers for those who like to share and larger plates for those who’d rather not. The chalkstream trout tartare was a highlight, with sweet datterini tomatoes and pink fish offset with peppery red onions and a zesty, cheek-pinching dressing (I could drink bowls of the stuff); as was the spring asparagus skewer, with a wild garlic pesto and heaped shavings of Greek graviera cheese. Wine is also a focal point here – the restaurant has close to 500 bottles on offer, each fizzing with coastal minerals from Greek shorelines, and plenty of fresh, skin-contact and pink options to boot. For a reliable date night spot with delicious sharing plates (though you may fight over the last bite), Oma is the place to book. Olivia Morelli
Address: 2-4 Bedale St, London SE1 9AL
Price: ££
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Arlington, St. James's
“Have you been to Arlington yet?” must be one of the most asked questions in London at the moment. Those who can say “yes” do so with more than a hint of pride; those who can't return to frantically refreshing the website hoping to bag one of the hottest tables in town. The hype around this restaurant is unsurprising – it’s the homecoming of a beloved London legend. Jeremy King opened Le Caprice behind The Ritz at 20 Arlington Street with Chris Corbin in 1981. Forty years later, after opening several of London’s most famed restaurants, including The Ivy, J Sheekey, and Colbert, he returned to open Arlington. It’s as buzzy and brilliant as ever, with Jeremy moving ever so coolly between tables, greeting guests, royalty and rockstars like old friends (as many of them are). A thoroughly modern engine underpins art-deco elegance, the very best of a bygone era of the London restaurant scene masterfully refreshed for a new reign. The menu is bursting with British and European classics, including salmon fishcakes with sorrel sauce, shepherd’s pie and beer-battered haddock and chips. The bang bang chicken and crispy duck and watercress salad are the perfect warm-up acts – light, refreshing and fragrant, best enjoyed with an ice-cold glass of Cote de Provence rosé. The service is faultless, reassuringly weighty plates placed delicately with an ‘A’ perfectly positioned at the top. “This restaurant is fundamental to my history; it is in my DNA, my very soul”, declares Jeremy. Aren't we lucky that he also wants it to be part of his future. Louisa Parker Bowles
Address: 20 Arlington Street, St. James's, London SW1A 1RG
Price: £££
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The Cocochine, Mayfair
It’s no easy feat to bag a Mayfair address. Locals and visitors alike are familiar with the grand storefronts lining Bond Street, so you can imagine our surprise when we turned onto a quiet mews in the heart of London searching for The Cocochine. We walked by the restaurant not once but twice before noticing the understated entry – a deep red awning framed by the warm glow of Mayfair’s newest address.
Cocochine is the love child of Sri Lankan-born Chef Larry Jayasekara and Hamiltons Gallery owner Tim Jefferies. And love child it is. It is apparent to us that each detail in this four-story townhouse was painstakingly considered; bespoke lighting to minimise shadows, a hand-painted mosaic inspired by Guido Mocafico and leather handrails that match that of the steak knives. The first floor is an intimate space where diners can enjoy an a la carte menu, while the second floor is home to the chef’s counter. Diners can sip on a glass of a Burgundy in the basement-slash-wine cellar, while the top floor is a private event space equipped with a kitchen, dining table and sumptuous couches.
We start with an array of off-menu canapés before moving on to the starters. The Orkney Island scallops with creamy pumpkin and a zingy elderflower sauce is the star, as was the melt-in-your-mouth Otoro topped with caviar. Next is the bread course, a soft, steaming bun with the taste and smell of comforting French onion soup. The mains included 40-day-aged beef sirloin with razor clams and, my favourite, the dry-aged wild fillet of turbot. We topped it off with a Cocochine chocolate biscuit with caviar and an apple savarin. Cocochine is still ironing out the kinks when it comes to ambience, but there is no arguing that the food and design are masterfully executed. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re a diner in search of a classy Mayfair den. Amber Port
Address: The Cocochine, 27 Bruton Place, London W1J 6NQ
Price: £££
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The Dover, Mayfair
It’s rare for a restaurant to open in Mayfair without making a fuss. The arrival of glitzy new establishments with such a coveted postcode is often documented in real-time across digital tabloid pages as influencers and celebrities funnel in for DJ sets and bottomless bubbles.
That isn't The Dover's style. Perhaps it’s Martin Kuczmarski’s background as Soho House’s COO or a response to the oversaturation of heavily papped spots in this corner of the capital, but this opening was an understated affair. Three days of ‘friends and family’ sittings were followed by in-the-know diners arriving at the New York-style Italian. They, in turn, spread the news by word of mouth. Arriving on a drizzly April afternoon, we would have walked straight past if it wasn’t for Google Maps leading the way. Heaving the currant-red drape aside unveils a space akin to a Big Apple speakeasy, candlelit tables on either side of a walkway that leads past the bar, a series of dining booths, and finally into the main dining space. Milanese designers Quincoces & Drago took charge of the interiors, a sturdy cocoon of curved American Walnut panelling illuminated by Art Deco lamps and flickering flames.
The bar snacks caught our attention more than the starters. Crispy cigar-sized zucchini and asparagus fritti stand tall on a glass plinth like firewood, shaved black truffle adorns an oozy cheese sauce quattro formaggi and a contender for the prettiest (miniature) hot dog in town stands proud. For the main event: a plump chicken cordon bleu in a pizzaiola sauce, a comfort-sized bowl of spaghetti meatballs, plus sides of mashed potatoes. Dive into the homemade pasta and, for a moment, you’re home, tucked up on the sofa far from the chitter-chatter of W1.
“There’s always room for the best part,” we’re assured as we agonise over the pudding menu. We tested this hypothesis with a zesty slice of baked crème brulée cheesecake and sour cherries. With a whisper of Savinguan Blanc still in our glasses, we retreated once again to the bar with the intention of more Martinis – The Dover's speciality. Connor Sturges
Address: The Dover, 33 Dover Street, London W1S 4NF
Price: £££
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Mimosa, Marylebone
As I battle my way through the driving rain on what is supposed to be a spring evening in London, in my head I can picture no better place to be than on the sun-soaked French Riviera. Luckily, I’m getting as close as I can by visiting Mimosa, The Langham’s brand-new restaurant. The sister restaurant to its Paris counterpart, which opened in 2021, Mimosa aims to bring the spirit of the South of France and Italian Riviera to the city. As I step into the dining room, I’m enveloped by the warmth and glitz you might associate with such a theme. Opulent marble and dark wood are offset by a towering fig tree and bright, kitschy design details. The menu is an equally opulent and quirky roadmap of the Riviera. We spent many minutes – and a few semi-heated debates – poring over the variety of dishes on offer. Do we opt for the signature Mimosa egg with truffle or bottarga, the sea bream or beef carpaccio? Sidenote: as charming as sharing plates are in concept, it’s important to choose your dining partners wisely to avoid any hangry fallouts. We eventually settled for a wafer-thin beef carpaccio with fried capers, as well as a perfectly pink and plump yellowfin tuna belly with a rich, peppery sauce to start. Next, an unassuming corn-fed coquelet served with thyme, bulbous roasted garlic and lemon had us picking the carcass for every last strip of succulent meat. Buttery and herby crushed potatoes were served in abundance alongside, and a gargantuan meatball swimming in a sweet pomodoro sauce with lashings of stracciatella was really a sight to behold. We washed it all down with a light and lively Beaujolais – a deviation from the southern France theme but a delicious one at that. Finally, as we slumped deeper and deeper into the plush velvet sofa, we decided we had to opt for the original Italian ‘pick me up’, a tiramisu. Served “deconstructed”, we watched as the familiarly rich and decadent layers were pieced together at the table and finished with a flourish of cascading cocoa. While I still don’t really understand the benefit of serving a deconstructed dessert – or any dish for that matter – I can’t deny it was a suitably fun and over-the-top way to finish our dining experience.
Address: Mimosa, The Langham, London, 1C Portland Place, London W1B 1JA
Price: £££
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Best new London restaurants in March 2024
Kink(all)y, Bloomsbury
Georgia-born chef David Chelidze made waves in Moscow with his Modern Georgian restaurant Hedonist. Financier-turned-restaurateur Diana Militski grew up in the States and Russia, a lifelong Georgiaphile. They’ve united for what is Militski’s first project – not that you’d guess it, with the precision passion she exudes. Compact, two-storey Kink(all)y offers Georgian food “but with a kink and a twist on everything”. This traditional cuisine inspires patriotism and change resistance – and this restaurant has taken the just-like-mother-made-it predictability out of the equation – but the Georgian diaspora are already booking out these plain timber tables in their minimalist, moody-dark, downlit setting. It’s a short, curated menu of intense but concentrated passions. It segues from small to larger plates, followed by khinkali (Georgian dumplings) and then one choice of dessert. It’s paired with a trio of natural wines from Georgia, which on the night I visited included the full-bodied, blackcurranty Nicolas Antadze; the orangey, unfiltered Shota Lagazidze (earthiness personified) and Didimi, a crisp and citrusy Krakhuna by slow food and wine hero Ramaz Nikoladze. The small plates are unforgettable. There’s a light, moussy rabbit pate on mazuki Georgian sweet bread with a soupçon of rhubarb and a “Gurian style” six-hour-dehydrated confit-like beetroot (the Georgians usually use cabbage) with Tkemali plum sauce on a ricotta bed with a hint of wild mint. Razer-thin strips of courgette join walnuts and the tartness of cherry dogwood; and a spicy-salty baked aubergine is spiked with ajika, an earthy chilli seasoning, and softened with vanilla matsoni, a fermented Georgian yoghurt. Larger plates included Imeruli flatbread with cheese, lamb chasuli (a sour plum, wine and tarragon casserole) and a pistachio praline. Their twisted dumplings are a switch-up on the standard, chunky versions, being soft, light and delicate, with unusual contents. “It’s a bit controversial,” says Diana. There’s langoustine with tarragon and matsoni, and pumpkin with gorgonzola and amaretto. The dessert of dry persimmon, salted caramel and mascarpone is my favourite of the year. A red-lamp-lit bar is tucked away behind swishy curtains in the basement, the perfect hidden place for a tucked-away date between Wednesdays and Saturdays. Cocktails created by Andrew Pruts, part of the team behind Insider, are twists on classics. I loved their Nomad, a Negroni that switches the Campari for bitters, micro coriander and strawberry. Restaurants don’t normally have me googling flights to Tbilisi, but this one did. Lydia Bell
Address: 43 Charlotte Street, W1T 1RS
Price: £££
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Sale e Pepe, Knightsbridge
It takes a lot for the utterance of a London restaurant to raise eyebrows and activate envious lip-licking: “How did you get a table?!”. Sale e Pepe is one such address.
The Knightsbridge restaurant opened its doors in 1974 and quickly became synonymous with the Dolce Vita lifestyle and old-school Italian glamour. Priscilla Presley and Rod Stewart are among the superstar Italophiles spotted slurping bucatini and sipping zesty cocktails in the corners – although staff remain tight-lipped on who they’re expecting to rush through the door. Thesleff Group, which owns Mexican-Japanese hotspot Los Mochis, acquired the restaurant in 2022 and drafted plans to return the glamorous hideout to her former glory. Hamilford Design has led the design efforts, drawing inspiration from classic Italian design found in the townhouses of Milan; midnight blue walls, dressed tables beneath eye-wateringly expensive art, and bronze mirrors stretching the compact in every direction. It’s a facelift sure to be the envy of many fabulous 50-somethings in this part of town.
Is it ‘small plates dining’ if it’s Italian? It’s debatable, but, while the beaming waiter’s encouragement to “order for the table” is an easy feat with a menu so filled with favourites, portions are hearty enough to enjoy a multi-course meal with an a la carte main each. Regardless, share we did, juicy prawns, herby tuna tartare and crispy shards of bread to pierce the plump burrata – the nucleus of a food-fuelled séance in the dimly-lit corner (put phones away or prepare to embrace the embarrassment of the necessary camera flash).
Bubbles flowed, punchy Negronis followed, and we again decorated our table in treats. Cacio e pepe arrived on a wiry pedestal (as it should), the combination of black pepper and rich parmesan triggering a fresh wave of wine orders. My first veal Milanese was a revelation, obligingly coated in a gluten-free crumb to cater for a companion’s intolerance. Pockets of ravioli sat, not swam, in a rich tomato sauce, stuffed with spinach and velvety ricotta. There’s always room for pudding when tiramisu is present, so in we dived, cleansing our tastebuds with zingy limoncello before heading into the night, stuffed and smug that we’d secured a sale a pepe experience before the rest of London discovered its back in business – and better than ever. Connor Sturges
Address: Sale e Pepe, 9-15 Pavilion Road, London SW1X 0HD
Price: £££
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Josephine, Chelsea
My all-time favourite cuisine is French, which is a surprisingly controversial statement to make, especially in a city like London which is full to the gills with pasta and sushi lovers. “You can only eat so much steak,” a friend told me recently. The naysayers, I would venture, don't really know French food, with a misguided impression that all French restaurants are white tablecloth affairs where women in berets daintily work through a steak tartare during a three-hour lunch break. Claude Bosi's newest Fulham Road opening is the perfect place for a re-education. Bosi (of Michelin-starred Bibendum and, more recently, Brooklands at the new Peninsula London) has taken inspiration from his hometown Lyon. “Lyon, gastronomic epicentre of France, and thus the universe, is built on two round hills that stand like salt-and-pepper pots on the vine-green topographic tablecloth of the Rhône valley,” Jonathan Bastable wrote in a feature on the food-obsessed French city a few years back, a line that has stayed with me since I read it. At Josephine, Bosi is stripping things back and drawing on this rich culinary tradition. I admit, I expected these dishes to be given the Michelin treatment – portion sizes reduced, plates prettied up, a foam here or a jús there. But the menu stays joyously true to Bosi's heritage, and the team staunchly avoids refining dishes beyond anything a Lyonnaise grandmother would recognise (Josephine is also named after Bosi's own grand-mère). That means house wine is served by the pot, a 460ml serving in a heavy-bottomed glass bottle, and charged to your bill based on how much you drink, whether that's one glass or three bottles. The £15.50 plat du jour is available Monday to Friday and changes daily; it might be steak haché one day and boeuf bourguignon the next.
We ordered Saint-Félicien cheese souffle, which wobbled delightfully in a rich cheese sauce, and the French onion soup, which was ugly-delicious personified, dark and stodgy and oozing with cheese that pulled from the bowl as we dipped our spoons in. Mains to share include rabbit with mustard and tarragon sauce, served unfussily in a crockpot left on the table for diners to dig into as they please. But when I go back, I'm reordering the saucisson brioche: a soft slice of bread filled with smoky Morteau sausage that transported me straight from Chelsea to the Rhône valley. The brioche, incidentally, is part of the menu du canet, priced at £24.50 for two courses or £29.50 for three. Prices that reasonable anywhere in London are rare these days and, for my money, make Josephine one of the most outrageously decent value-for-money openings of the past 12 months. Of course, you could spend more, racking up the bill with pink-rare steak (delicious) and a smattering of puddings for the table (don't skip the surprisingly light isles flotant, a perfect foil to all those heavy sauces and buttery dishes), if that's your bag. Either way, this is the kind of restaurant you want to lose an afternoon in, and might just – I hope – change the city's mind about French cuisine after all. Sarah James
Address: Josephine, 315 Fulham Road, SW10 9QH, London
Price: £££
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The Tamil Crown, Angel
Is the hype about The Tamil Crown – sister restaurant to the nearby The Tamil Prince – warranted? Plenty seem to think so. Entering the pub-meets-Indian gastro delight, I’m faced with bolshy hopefuls trying to score an elusive table anywhere on the premises, whether upstairs in the main dining room or the more casual ground-floor space. Truthfully, I enter every new Indian restaurant with some caution. So often, they’re designed to suit a Western palate, but being South Indian, I grew up eating food that essentially tastes like fire. So, when ordering the onion bhajis, I instinctively fear the worst and balance that with a vegetarian uttapam, a South Indian pancake I grew up eating. Joyfully, both small plates were the perfectly balanced combination of home cooking with a luxurious twist.
We move to the larger plates which, as a word of warning to the hungry, aren’t that large. But the tamarind-infused aubergine curry, moreish coconut prawn moilee and excellent Thanjavur chicken curry worked beautifully shared between two, with coconut rice (ask for a side of yoghurt to have with it.) The soft, buttery roti tastes like the ultimate flour-based love child of a flaky Malabar paratha and a petal-soft rumali roti. Though nothing is hot or spicy as such, the rich flavours ensure my mouth isn’t left wanting at all.
If you don’t have space for pudding, take a speedy walk around the block and make some. The gulab jamun – or warm doughnut-like balls - came not in the usual sweet syrup, but in creamy payasam instead, a fragrant traditional south Indian milk-based soup-like pudding infused with cardamom and saffron. Despite being stuffed, it’s impossible to leave a morsel of its evocative and comforting sweetness behind. A week later and I’m already plotting my return. If you love unique flavours, Indian food and a relaxed setting, then this is sure to become your new favourite spot. Anita Bhagwandas
Address: The Tamil Crown, 16 Elia Street, London N1 8DE
Price: ££
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Mambow, Clapton
When we talk of young chefs making waves on London’s restaurant scene, Abby Lee’s name won’t be far from in-the-know foodie's lips. Levelling up from her tiny outpost in Peckham, Lee recently brought her exciting modern Malaysian concept north of the river to a sweet spot in oh-so-trendy Lower Clapton. The new, bigger space still only has 20 indoor covers, making securing a table here a little like a game of musical chairs. But boy is it worth it when you do get your foot in the door.
We started things off with the 100+ Sour from their ever-changing cocktail menu, an innovative take on the classic pisco sour featuring coconut liquor, miso syrup and blackberry. Next up, an array of small plates that ranged from my favourite lor bak – a spicy crispy pork bite that I’ve been dreaming about since – to a nutty grilled banana blossom and prawn toast (almost like a prawn cake) that was unlike any I’ve tasted before. Other highlights included wok-fried mussels with abundant chilli and, the understated winner for me, the black pepper chicken curry. Full to the gills but unwilling to stop consuming, we finished things off with pandang pancakes filled with a sweet toffee-like coconut filling and a coffee ice cream to cut through the sugar.
All-in-all this menu was a delight from start to finish, packed full of surprises and all produced in a tiny kitchen where chefs stand shoulder to shoulder. Despite Mambow's size, Abby Lee and her modern Malaysian restaurant will be stamping a big footprint on the London dining scene. Watch this space. Lucy Bruton
Address: 78 Lower Clapton Road, London, E5 0RN
Price: ££
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Donia, Soho
Florence Mae Maglanoc and Omar Shah are on a mission to put Filipino cuisine on the map. Their Maginhawa Group (behind some of London’s popular Filipino and Southeast Asian restaurants, including Mamasons Dirty Ice Cream) has grown exponentially in just six years. If world domination is their plan then we won’t stand in their way, especially when their latest venture, Donia, is serving some of the best food in London right now.
Reassuringly frequented by Filipino diners, this Kingly Court eatery combines Filipino street food concepts with British cooking techniques. The small-plate starters include crunchy croquetas stuffed with pickled mushrooms that are so delicious they had us chomping in silence. Chicken offal skewers (a Filipino street food staple), come with a sweet barbecue glaze and cucumber vinegar dip. Donia’s short menu descriptions undersell the intricacy of dishes such as the prawn and pork dumplings with white crab, which sit on a lovely, surprise pool of brown butter lime sauce sprinkled with divine roe. Diners can’t get enough of the lamb shoulder Caldereta pie, classic Filipino meat stew encased in British-style latticed puff pastry. Another crowd-pleaser, the crispy skinned pork belly, is roasted Léchon-style and accompanied with a sweet peppercorn liver sauce. Equally satisfying is the chicken Inasal – fabulously moist, tender and topped with calamansi pickles.
For seafood lovers, the sea bream with pickled lime, chive and mustard dressing, red chilli slices and dollops of Avocado purée is a treat. Finally, the choux filled with Ube praliné, coconut chantilly and Ube cream seals Maginhawa Group’s reputation for tasty and innovative desserts. A repeat visit feels already overdue. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 2.14 (Top Floor) Kingly Court, Carnaby Street, London, W1B 5PW
Price: £££
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Best new London restaurants in January 2024
The Pelican, Notting Hill
Let’s face it, London is not short of buzzy gastro pubs with elevated menus promising to be the one-stop food and drink destination in town. But what so many of these establishments sacrifice somewhere along the face-lift process is their soul, and that’s where The Pelican stands head and shoulders above the rest. Established in 1872, this Notting Hill boozer has earned its reputation as a cornerstone of West London, trying many different hats along the way with its long and storied history. The latest hat has been perfectly placed by restaurateur James Gummer alongside co-owners Phil Winser and Richard Squire who undertook a hefty refurb back in 2022. The resulting space is an understated delight, with a shabby-chic aesthetic, roaring open fire and plenty of cosy nooks and crannies perfect for sipping cool pints while spilling gossip between mouthfuls of bar snacks.
The success of the refurbishment is made obvious as we force our way through the doors on a bustling Friday night in January. Thankfully, the dining area is tucked away in the back – a snug, candlelit room reminiscent of a French farmhouse kitchen. Aside from the aesthetics, the real heart of the pub's transformation lies, of course, in the food. Helmed by the acclaimed head chef Owen Kenworthy, highlights from the carefully curated menu include succulent bone marrow with a fresh parsley salad (a not-so-subtle ode to the famed St John equivalent), the juiciest of langoustine with lashings of lemon and a crunchy chargrilled King cabbage. The pièce de résistance was a gargantuan black bream dubbed by my very discerning mother, “quite possibly the best fish I’ve ever had”. If you’re feeling hungry the lobster and monkfish pie looked like an absolute triumph. Made for sharing between two to four people, we were too defeatist to make an attempt on this visit, but trust me when I say I'll be back to tuck in – elastic waistband at the ready. Lucy Bruton
Address: 45 All Saints Rd, London W11 1HE
Price: £££
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Restaurant Story, Bermondsey
Restaurant Story, a two-Michelin-star restaurant in London Bridge, is open again after a slick multi-million-pound makeover. The new and improved hotspot now has a second floor with a sophisticated private dining space, a cosy nook with a blazing fire and plush velvet seating, and a balcony with a top-notch view of The Shard. Most tables are still downstairs; a bright, modern space which directs all eyes towards the glass-framed kitchen in the corner. Tables are dressed in white linen topped with dainty flowers, with decorative copper birds hanging from above.
Tom Sellers, known for his ability to create playful fine-dining dishes that evoke a sense of nostalgia for diners, is in charge. There's a complex and creative 11-course tasting menu, but guests won't know exactly what they're being served until the dish is placed on the table. But rest assured it'll be a delicious and memorable experience with theatrical, fun and fragile dishes that you'll roll into bed dreaming about that evening (and probably the next few evenings, too).
A few firm favourites have kept pride of place on the menu – and yes, that includes the infamous beef-dripping candle. The lit candle is placed in the middle of a silver tray that catches the melting beef fat. Soak up the juices with warm, sweet brioche and spoon dollops of slow-cooked beef shin and pickled celery on top.
Palate cleansers are served between courses – we particularly loved the warm langoustine broth which warms up your taste buds to a prime temperature for enjoying the following course. Other dishes included a barbecued langoustine tail served on a bed of stones, a roasted crown of duck cooked slowly over three hours at a temperature of 40 degrees, and a soft white turbot with fermented cabbage. Make the most of the in-house sommelier who is on hand to pair courses and wines; there are reds from the hillsides of Serbia to smooth and punchy wines from the coastal regions of South Africa. Sophie Knight
Address: 199 Tooley St, London SE1 2JX
Price: ££££
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Sune, Broadway Market
Renowned sommelier Honey Spencer and partner Charlie Sims (formerly of Copenhagen’s Noma) are a food-and-wine pairing in human form. The power duo – who between them have 35 years of experience via Sydney, Mexico, and London’s Michelin-starred Lyle’s – have joined forces to launch Broadway Market’s latest eatery. Sune (derived from the Old Norse word for ‘son’), serves up British fare with international accents. The starters are a joy, from the Carlingford oysters in a koji mignonette, to the grilled flatbread slathered with trout roe and a horseradish cream that clears the sinuses without immolating them. It takes some self-discipline not to linger permanently at this stage of the meal, but the mains maintain the high standard; highlights include strozzapreti pasta and tangy, wild mushrooms and Rockefeller toasties with a parmesan, bacon, pecorino and spinach filling. The grilled pork chop comes in a jus, whose prawn, lemongrass and miso notes give strong, pan-Asian vibes. Spencer, a wine director at Studio Paskin, has curated a sure-footed selection of natural wines, including the Yo El Rey Grenache and Syrah from Stellenbosch in South Africa, their quietly charismatic flavours pairing well with everything. The brown rice sake, however, evokes Marmite and proved equally divisive on our table. It’s all enjoyed amid warm and woody, candlelit interiors, with windows overlooking the Regent’s Canal. And with plans to build a balcony at the back, we can look forward to glorious sunsets over the water in the summer. Yet another reason, if more were needed, for a return visit. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: Sune, 129A Pritchard’s Road, London E2 9AP
Price: £££
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The best new London restaurants in 2023
A new year might be upon us, but we're still dreaming of some of the best restaurants that opened in 2023 – and, if you're anything like us, you haven't had a chance to eat at all of the wonderful new spots from the last few months of the year yet. So below, find our edit of the top openings in autumn 2023, to add to your 2024 bucket list.
Best new London restaurants in December 2023
The Devonshire, Soho
Recently, I was in a small village in northern Sweden, all lakes and forest and red-roofed houses, and asked a young local where people met up. He thought for a moment then, a little downcast, said, “In the garage when we’re getting petrol,” then, a little wistfully: “I hear you have some nice pubs in England?” Yes, we do. And while some have closed, there are reasons to be cheerful. We’ve seen a flurry of London boozers reopening recently that have kept all the atmosphere intact but woven in excellent restaurants, such as Ben Tish at The Barley Mow, Hauser & Wirth’s The Audley and, best of all, Henry Harris’s Racine 2.0 at Clerkenwell’s The Three Compasses. A pint and packet of crisps downstairs, three courses, and good wine upstairs. Now we have The Devonshire, just off Piccadilly Circus. It’s the passion project of Oisin Rogers, who has been steering London and Dublin pubs for three decades – most notably and most recently at The Guinea Grill – and Charlie Carroll, founder of Flat Iron steakhouses. They’ve assembled something of a crack team, with Ashley Palmer-Watts of Fat Duck and Dinner by Heston fame in the kitchen, front-of-house staff from St John’s and head butcher George Donnelly. But another star of the show is the centrepiece wood-burning grill and oven at the far end of the dining room. The closer to the grill you get, the more you may want to consider wearing shorts and a T-shirt – it’s intense, almost like being on the boilerplate of The Flying Scotsman as it chugs up to the Highlands. Talking of which, most of the meat on the menu is sourced from Scottish estates, though butchered and aged in the meat room downstairs. “I wanted to celebrate English food, British food,” Rogers tells me, passing our table. “Pies and fish and chips, all those wonderful local ingredients such as langoustines and scallops; to make a lamb hotpot using the best possible produce.” We order a few of those Oban scallops, served on the shell and doused in a chippie-style bacon-and-malt-vinegar sauce, best mopped up with the bread roll; and a rare brawn toast – despite the name, pretty as a French eclair. Mains were a beef fillet so tender and perfectly seared it could have easily stood alone, though duck-fat chips and buttered leeks helped it along; and a beef suet and Guinness pudding straight out of Dickens. We shared a soufflé and raised a glass of Sauternes to this new West End show. No wonder it’s been drawing in Michelin chefs and curious tourists alike since it opened in November 2023. Much better, you’ll agree, than meeting in a garage forecourt. Rick Jordan
Address: The Devonshire, 17 Denman Street, London W1D 7HW
Price: £££
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Bistro Freddie, Shoreditch
This charming new restaurant brings an authentic bistro feel to the streets of Shoreditch that so many restaurants try (and fail) to accomplish. A compact space with crisp white tablecloths, cool stone floors, deep wood panelling and a perfectly warming candlelit glow – we might have just found the ultimate date night spot in town. Ok, we’re wooed by the setting, but what about the food? Dominic Hamdy, founder of the acclaimed Crispin in Spitalfields and Bar Crispin in Soho, dreamt this place up and brought in talented head chef Anna Søgaard to helm the kitchen. Bistro Freddie pays homage to the best produce from the British Isles. A quick snack on boiled eggs with anchovies before tearing through a pillowy flatbread topped with buttery snails and salty fried chicken skin is a good way to start. Opt for one of the classics from the all-French wine list – we were lucky enough to visit on the historic Beaujolais Nouveau day so a juicy, cool sparkling red was our tipple of choice. The bavette steak is a perfectly pink delight with a soul-warming peppercorn sauce, although the plaice dish swimming in curry sauce is a little too off-piste for my palette. If you’re looking for a more interactive affair, book one of the 12 seats fringing the open kitchen counter to truly soak up the action. The staff are a testament to the friendly, relaxed vibe of the restaurant, happy to chat through the menu while they work and plate the dishes before our eyes. All in all, this is a great addition to the East London food scene, one that holds a candle to classic, unpretentious dining with the occasional surprise in store. Lucy Bruton
Address: Bistro Freddie, 74 Luke Street, Greater, London EC2A 4PY
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in November 2023
Jamie Oliver Catherine Street, Covent Garden
It's been a long road that led Jamie Oliver to this – a brand-new flagship restaurant that's turning heads in Covent Garden. The opening – in twinkly and festive late-November London – comes a few years after his chain of self-titled Jamie's Italian restaurants shuttered doors across the country. For those years, while hardly laying low, Jamie broadly kept out of the restaurant business, doubling down on his best-selling cookbooks and a new venture, Yes Chef, which provides cooking classes digitally. Now he's back – if not behind the pass himself then very much at the forefront of a Catherine Street outpost that has his name proudly above the door. The team of merry men and women he's assembled (head chef Chris Shaill and pastry chef Emma Jackson are both ex-Barbecoa, Jamie's former flagship steak restaurant) have crafted a menu that tracks with the sort of food the celeb chef is now well-known for: homely, British food with a twist. The result is basically an ode to Jamie's upbringing above his parents' pub in Essex – think deviled eggs; scampi and chips; Sutton Hoo chicken to share with stroganoff sauce and shoestring fries. As a man with a reputation for putting stock into provenance and seasonality, it comes as no surprise that he puts his suppliers front and centre. Sourdough is from Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall, for example, while the Scotch egg comes with Stornoway Black Pudding. Don't miss the chocolate-cake-chocolate-mousse hybrid for pudding, while sinking into the joyously comfortable chairs (interiors were all chosen to be as relaxed and informal as possible). This is an unbuttoned place for dinner from one of Britain's best-loved chefs making his comeback at last. Sarah Allard
Address: Jamie Oliver Catherine Street, 6 Catherine Street, London WC2B 5JY
Price: ££
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The Wolseley City
It’s fair to say that The City isn’t necessarily known for its buzzy restaurant openings. Workers reign supreme here, with a regular clientele and boozy lunches often the order of the day. But The Wolseley’s new City location brings a sense of old-school glamour back to the chain bars and pubs of the area, with its opulent chandeliers, monochromatic colour palette and top-notch service welcoming you as soon as you step into the oversized dining room. As the sister of one of London’s most-loved gastronomic establishments, the menu is unsurprisingly littered with crowd-pleasers, from seafood to steak, and a wine list guaranteed to please even the most refined palates. Start your meal with fat, warm breadsticks served with homemade butter before moving onto a seafood starter – if you can’t quite face a whole platter, the tuna tartare is fresh, with a hint of citrus. When you’re ready to move onto mains, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by choice – house-made gnocchi with roast butternut squash, a classic fish pie and delicious soufflé – but the grill serves up seriously memorable dishes. We lapped up the juicy bacon chop, which was served with a sweet, sticky and very slightly spicy sauce, while the duck is a classic choice done right. Don’t neglect the sides here, particularly the cauliflower rarebit, which was deliciously cheesy and just hearty enough. Puddings put Willy Wonka to shame with everything from a banana split to a classic crème brûlée on offer. We chose the lemon meringue pie (a perfect ratio of three parts meringue to one lemon and one pastry, in my opinion) and a British and Irish cheese board, which was a delicious (if more than a little indulgent) way to end the meal. This is London in a restaurant: a mixture of people coming together to have a memorable time. Abigail Malbon
Address: The Wolseley City, 68 King William Street, London EC4N 7HR
Price: £££
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Murano, Mayfair
Not so much a new restaurant, this, but a new imagining of an old classic. Angela Hartnett's Murano has been feeding an elegant crowd since 2008, when the now household-name chef opened the doors on Queen Street and started cooking Northern Italian dishes. A few months after opening, the restaurant won a Michelin star (which it has retained ever since) and four AA rosettes (also held onto for the past 15 years). But this summer, Angela and the team shut up shop for a tip-to-toe makeover to celebrate the milestone birthday, and reopened with a new head chef and a fresh-feel menu. George Ormond is now looking after the pass. His menu – worked on closely, of course, with Angela herself – is considered and stripped back. Just three starters, three pasta dishes, three fish options and three meat options are listed on the a la carte menu each day. Rather cleverly, you can choose between three and six courses from anywhere on the menu – the team adjusts the size of the portions to reflect the amount of plates coming out. The smoked ricotta tartlet combines wonderfully light pastry with creamy ricotta and tart pickled walnut. The pasta dishes stand out, even on a menu filled with hits, so don't skip over these – we particularly liked the wonderfully simple chicken tortellini in brodo. If you're in the market for meat, the saddleback pork with pickled plum is soft and moreish. Don't sleep on the pudding menu, either: the caramelised Amalfi lemon tart is zingy and fresh and won't put you to sleep. There's also a vegan menu as well as a reasonably priced lunch menu (three courses for £55). This is a classic restaurant that's been given a new lease of life, helmed by a team that's passionate about looking forward as well as celebrating the past. Sarah James
Address: Murano, 20 Queen Street, Mayfair, London W1J 5PP
Price: ££££
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Dear Jackie, Soho
If there's one criticism levelled at Soho these days, it's that the neighbourhood has lost its soul. It's one of the foodiest areas in the city – and some of our favourite places to eat in London are restaurants in Soho – and while much of the area has retained its plucky atmosphere, the odd opening creeps in, which is so homogenous it doesn't reflect the area's frenetic rhythms at all. Not so here. Broadwick Soho, an opulent hotel opening designed by Martin Brudnizki, taps into Soho's quirky vibe from the off. It's not every day you find yourself in front of a building bedecked with six-foot elephants, after all. From the rooftop bar, Flute, to the 57 rooms, it's a riot of sequins and glitter and leopard print – a glossy take on Soho's penchant for vintage and late nights. But something special happens on the lower-ground floor, where the restaurant Dear Jackie sits. Seductive Murano lighting, maroon silk walls, plump blue-and-white booths transport guests from Soho to Sicily. Starters such as light-as-can-be seabass crudo with fennel and orange, burrata with quince and hazelnuts and – our favourite – seared scallops bobbing in delicate Champagne sauce kick things off. These make way for a requisite pasta course – keep it classic and order the spaghetti vongole, or go for the silky pappardelle with rich braised rabbit, guanciale, and salty olives. Mains of roast turbot and artichokes or perfectly plump Cornish lamb with anchovies are there for the taking, although serves are happy for you to skip a main and head straight to dessert if a four-course supper sounds a little too on the heavy side. Whatever you do, don't sleep on the lemon crème brûlée, the love child of the classic French pud and a lemon tart. Reservations can be made as late as 10.45pm on weekends. It's a proper late-night hangout, and the crimson silk walls and intimate booths only exacerbate the vibes making for a fun-loving neighbourhood addition that, at its core, dials into Soho's soul – or at least, a very elevated version of it. Sarah James
Address: Dear Jackie, 20 Broadwick Street, London W1F 8HT
Price: £££
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At Sloane, Chelsea
2023 has been a busy year for splashy hotel openings in London. Which makes At Sloane, the new hush hush address on Sloane Square, all the more intriguing. Those in the know will recognise the names behind it – the hotel is a collaboration between recognised architect and interior designer Francois-Joseph Graf and the 300-year-old Cadogan Estate, envisioned by world-renowned French hotelier Costes. Graf also oversaw the six-year-long full renovation of the 19th-century Arts and Crafts townhouse. At Sloane’s ethos is an ardent marriage between Parisian chic and Chelsea charm, which culminates in the top floor restaurant. The whispered approach sets the tone with only 48 seats spread (or squeezed) across four jewel box-esque rooms, plus a cupola – a private octagonal space that fits up to four guests. The intimate space is inspired by architect Thomas Jeckyll’s Peacock Room, with over 500 vases and just as many candles covering the white lacquered shelved walls. Every detail, from the delicate lattice work to the stained-glass windows, has been impressively recreated by ateliers to appear original. Adding to the syrupy candle light are a mix of original and reproduction Benson chandeliers and lamps – there are more than 700 found throughout the hotel. With so much to admire, the menu is thankfully unfussy. French dishes with simple single-word English translations like ‘artichokes’, ‘sea bass’, ‘caviar’ (with a £200 price tag). Champagne is the natural tipple of choice and it’s also the only restaurant in the area that does proper foie gras. Many of Hotel Costes’ signatures are here too. The spicy lobster pasta is a decadent comfort dish with generous chunks of lobster. The steak hits a Goldilocks-level of just right. The popular pommes allumettes are bendy but not crispy, which caused much debate at our table. For pudding I’m intrigued by the very unfrench pavlova, but am told it’s a dish for four. Instead the pain perdu comes highly recommended. French toast may seem like a rogue dessert choice – and yes you can come here and try it for breakfast too – but this is an undeniably indulgent dish, all gooey with caramel and a delicate crunch. C'était très bon. Lauren Burvill
Address: At Sloane, 1 Sloane Gardens, London SW1W 8EA
Price: ££££
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Akara, Borough
Aji Akokomi certainly knows how to celebrate West African flavours. Now, the team behind the much-loved Akoko have brought the multi-dimensional flavours of West Africa to a vanilla-toned and spacious industrial-chic setting, in the Victorian railway viaduct of Borough Yards. The concept is a more playful, yet still elegant, exhibit of dishes which also allude to the West African influences in Brazilian cuisine. A signature dish is of course the akara, a soft and spongy crispy-jacketed fritter made from black-eyed beans, which the restaurant is named after. One variety is filled with an umami bomb of silky mixed mushrooms, tossed in a peppery sosu kaani (Senegalese mild chilli sauce). Another option is filled with meaty, slightly sweet and creamy barbecue tiger prawn. A fleshy but pleasantly light hunk of pollock is paired with a velvety yassa sauce, and livened with the herby and spicy kick of a near fluorescent nokoss (Senegalese green marinade). The labu aged beef is notably less adventurous in terms of seasoning, but this does allow the excellent quality of the cut to shine through. Comforting, savoury flavour permeates every fibre of the succulent roasted chicken breast. But for me, the pièce de résistance is the edesi isip, a luscious and fragrant coconut rice decorated with glinting wedges of briny mackerel. The same level of attention devoted to the dishes has been given to the cocktails. My favourite is the mysteriously named ‘75’. It’s delicately effervescent but bursting with tropical flavours, expertly blending ingredients like mango and papaya with hay for some earthiness to temper its sweetness. Finish with a glossed dense cube of tamarind and date cake. Presented on a beautiful, freckled, sandy-brown ceramic plate, it tastes like sticky toffee pudding’s mature, older cousin. Toyo Odetunde
Address:
Price: £££
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Brooklands, The Peninsula Hotel
The chefs at Brooklands, The Peninsula Hotel’s new rooftop restaurant and bar, know they’ve got their work cut out when it comes to holding customers’ attention. Its eye-popping interiors are a playful homage to aeronautics and cars – twin passions of the Peninsula’s owner, Sir Michael Kadoorie, who is a pilot and classic car collector. An aluminium model Concorde spans the entire ceiling, while the carpet is patterned with stellar constellations. Add to that the stunning terrace views of the London skyline and Buckingham Palace, and you’d be forgiven for forgetting to even peruse the menu. But culinary director Claude Bosi (of Bibendum fame) and chef Francesco Dibenedetto are not ones to be upstaged. Using French techniques and exceptionally high-quality ingredients from around these isles, their seven-, five- and three-course British menus are a triumph of dining over visual distraction. They include a delicious ‘devil-style’ Dorset snail, and Bosi’s signature Racan guinea fowl with sea beet and Scottish razor clams. The celeriac, nosotto, crab and coconut was an excellent take on a seafood risotto, its creaminess infused with flavours of the (sizeable) crab chunks. Another standout was the chicken liver, chilled like a blob of ice cream and nestled in Coronation chicken sauce, in a nod to Bibendum’s foie gras concept. The bouncy lamb, mint and pastrami were cooked to medium-rare perfection and accompanied by a jus that made the mouth water. Together with a large selection of French and New World vintages, it’s safe to say the crew at Brooklands have truly earned their wings. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: The Peninsula, 1 Grosvenor Place, London SW1X 7HJ
Price: ££££
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Bambi, Hackney
An exciting new entrant on the East London food scene, Bambi is an intimate restaurant and wine bar brought to you by James Dye (co-owner of south London outposts The Camberwell Arms and Franks) and acclaimed chef, Henry Freestone at the foot of Netil House, Hackney. While you may raise your eyebrows at the ever-so-popular small plates and low-intervention wines, we must admit that this place pulls it off in style.
So, let’s dig in. We started with a crisp, creamy cauliflower cheese arancini and lip-lickingly-good smoked mackerel pate with samphire. Another hit included the (you guessed it) saucy braised butter beans mixed with goat curds and kale. Meat eaters, don’t sleep on the roast chicken with pesto sauce, which boasts that perfect balance of crispy skin and succulent meat. Mop up the juices with the chicken fat focaccia, and you’re on to a winner here. Finally, cleanse the palette with a tipple from the impressively curated wine list (a juicy, cold, effervescent red for me) or, if you’re feeling brave, one of the bar’s glass-like Dirty Martinis.
The final string to Bambi's bow – sit back and enjoy some post-dinner tunes spun by resident DJs with vinyl plucked from the custom-made wall of records forming the back of the restaurant. Lucy Bruton
Address: Bambi, Netil House, 1 Westgate Street, London E8 3RL
Price: £££
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Best new London restaurants in October 2023
Chishuru, Fitzrovia
Chishuru’s evolution from a supper club twinkle in Adejoké Bakare’s eye to a Fitzrovia eatery is complete. The award-winning chef recently moved her restaurant from its former Brixton Village location to Great Titchfield Street, where she continues experimenting with West African cuisine in exciting ways. It’s a date-night kind of place: a fire-orange lamp by South African designer Mash.T and the pale ochre walls – reminiscent of traditional adobe – cast a warm, peachy glow about the place, while African prints by British-Nigerian designer Eva Sonaike line the seats. The £65 set menu includes punters’ favourite, the homely and pepper soup broth, its belly-warming saltiness offset by the sweet corn tofu chunks. Next was the moi moi (bean pudding) starter which, although surprisingly bland in flavour, let the super-delicious duck liver and duck egg sauce do the legwork and save the day. Meanwhile, the Sinasir, a fermented and beautifully crispy crab cake, was stuffed with white crab meat that wasn’t overdressed and retained its natural sweetness. The pick of the mains was the smokey, melt-in-the-mouth guinea fowl with taro root, ehuru and uziza sauce. Folksy yet exploratory, Bakare knows how to keep things spirited and innovative. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: Chishuru, 3 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8AX
Price: ££
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Mauro Colagreco, Raffles London at The OWO
You may have noticed a certain sparkly hotel opening of late: Raffles London at the OWO, which takes over half the Old War Office (leaving the other half for premium apartments). Whilst there are nine restaurants and three bars at the ambitious new OWO, the commitment to Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco – he of Mirazur on the Côte d’Azur – is resolute. There’s this, the signature fine-dining restaurant; Mauro’s Table, offering private dining for 20 in a curved corner room; and Saison, the all-day dining space. Raffles London may be an exercise in haughty masculinity – all blood reds and hunting greens to match the grandiosity of the Edwardian Baroque building – but Mauro Colagreco departs from this with a gentle colour palette of peachy lemony neutrals, soft carpets and low glowing lamps. Outside the sash windows, the mounted troopers of the Household Cavalry bristle on their steeds; inside, amuse bouches are presented on Bernardaud Limoges porcelain.
Colagreco’s hero restaurant espouses sustainable gastronomy – in this case, elevating the humble British vegetable. With supremely elegant back-to-frontness, proteins become an afterthought. Each dish centres a fruit or vegetable hero and arrives with a beautifully illustrated card describing the history of the ingredient. We have the Land and Sea five-course degustation: Radish, Lettuce, Leek, Radicchio, and Plum. Each course arrives with an “Exploration Pairing”, which could mean a sake or vermouth blanc as often as a wine. The four-day fermented radish in sake kasu cream that comes with langoustine tartare in its jelly and a three-month-confit lemon is intensely memorable. I don’t think I will ever look at lettuce from Elephant and Castle – grown in two weeks, harvested that day, served slightly warmed but raw and dressed in a cockle cream and vermouth sauce – the same way again. Lydia Bell
Address: Raffles London at The OWO Whitehall London SW1A 2BX United Kingdom
Price: ££££
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Bébé Bob, Soho
Leonid Shutov is well accustomed to wooing diners with delicious food and an ambience unmatched by most London restaurants. Bob Bob Ricard was Shutov’s first restaurant, and what better way to celebrate its 15th birthday than with the opening of his new, slightly more laid-back sister restaurant? We had the pleasure of getting a first look, and what became abundantly clear to me is that Bébé Bob will not play second fiddle to its sibling. The interiors are transformative and evoke travelling back to the Roaring Twenties, when art deco glamour reigned supreme. Royal blues and deep reds take shape in plush furnishing, dimmed lamps and panelled walls. Tasteful celebrations of colour appear via geometric designs adorning the floors and walls, with Pollockesque artwork peppering the space. The menu pays homage to the classics while making them feel exciting, with rotisserie chicken, caviar, fine wine, and Champagne as the primary focus. We start with a dégustation of three caviars served with créme fraîche and blinis, making for a luxurious (and tasty) warm-up to the main affair, the rotisserie chicken. We decide on the Landes chicken for two, which arrives piping hot and with silver service to boot. The chicken is deep in flavour, juicy and cooked to perfection. Order the roast potatoes and a winter leaf salad to accompany the dish, both of which complement the star beautifully, and finish with a Paris-Brest and Chocolate Fondant à la Black Forest – an indulgent end to a glamourous dining experience. No doubt, Bèbè Bob will work its way into the hearts of Londoners in no time at all. Amber Port
Address: Bébé Bob, 37 Golden Square, London W1F 9LB
Price: £££
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