The 37 best restaurants in Paris right now
From romantic restaurants to Michelin-star spots, these are the best restaurants in Paris to book, according to our editors and trusted Parisian foodies. Below, you'll find the Paris restaurants everyone's talking about right now, as well as the old classics we keep going back to for classic steak frites, fine dining, Vietnamese cooking and more.
How we choose the best restaurants in Paris
Every restaurant on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has eaten at that restaurant. When choosing restaurants, our editors consider both high-end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We're always looking for stand-out dishes, a great location and warm service – as well as serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new restaurants open and existing ones evolve.
- Pauline Gouablin/Datil
1. Datil
Dish to order: rutabaga and pink radishes
Take the sought-after roving chef Manon Fleury, a predominantly woman-led team, a plant-focused culinary ethos, and an earthy and bright interior, and you have Datil – the talented young chef’s first restaurant, located in the north Marais. Fleury has always given locally sourced produce the starring role in her cooking, treating meat and fish as condiments. But here, dishes are more than just the sum of their sustainable parts; they come out of the semi-open kitchen-like artistic compositions meant for reflection. The menu shifts seasonally, but standouts have included rutabaga and pink radishes layered with garlic cream, almond, harissa, and thinly sliced scallops, as well as a celery and mushroom consommé-congee mashup sprinkled with a few comestible flowers. Lindsey Tramuta
Address: Datil, 13 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris, France
Website: datil-restaurant.fr 2. Marsan par Hélène Darroze
Dish to order: Gilthead bream with Colonnata back fat, Paris cep and black truffle
The smart Left Bank address – a short-ish walk over the river from many other restaurants here – hasn’t changed, nor have its regulars. But Marsan by Hélène Darroze (who has three Michelin stars for her London outpost at The Connaught Hotel) is relatively new, opening in 2019 as a fresh incarnation. The name is a tribute to her home region of Landes, and there’s no doubting the sincerity of her attachment to the southwest and its flavours. The tasting menu served at the chef’s table (get your hair done – they’re looking at you too) name-checks Saint-Jean-de-Luz and the Périgord, as well as her brother and grandfather. Tiny appetisers might include beautifully crafted crisps of chicken skin packing a foie-gras flavour bomb or miniature goat’s cheese pastries, light as air. A starter of sea urchin, caviar and cauliflower is disarmingly creamy; gilthead bream with Colonnata back fat, Paris cep and black truffle is a major savoury mouthful; robustly thyme-scented baby lamb from the Pyrenees is a restrained showstopper. Frequent tableside drizzling and grating means you must concentrate a bit, but why wouldn’t you? In contrast with the smart, mushroom-toned design that mops up any clanking of bespoke ceramics, the food is distinctive, thrilling and vitally French.
Address: Marsan par Hélène Darroze, 4 Rue d'Assas, 75006 Paris
Website: marsanhelenedarroze.com- Joann Pai
3. Le Cadoret
Dish to order: Île flottante, crème caramel
The holy grail: classic French food, not too fancy, brilliantly well prepared and super value. Le Cadoret, opened in 2017 by chef Léa Fleuriot and her brother Louis-Marie, is a neighbourhood bistro with mirrors, terrazzo floors and a relaxed atmosphere, which its young owners have cleverly refreshed with a jolly blue awning, craft beers and an all-natural wine list (Loire- and Jura-heavy, and there’s quince liqueur from Domaine Binner in Alsace). The food, at a glance, might seem classic, but there is great skill in cooking a wonderful blanquette de veau or turning out an elegant tête de veau. Starters such as potato, fermented cabbage and haddock or homemade boudin noir are produce-led and delicate, and retro puddings (île flottante, crème caramel) are subtle, not sticky. The corner site is a short walk from Pyrenées Métro, with Parc des Buttes-Chaumont close to the north for a hilly walk after lunch.
Address: 1 Rue Pradier, 75019 Paris
Website: facebook.com4. Lolo Bistrot
Dish to order: Nduja scotch egg
Behind a minimal, wood-clad facade on a narrow, quintessentially Parisian street in the 9th, Christophe Juville and Loïc Minel have built on the success of their no-reservations wine bar with a seriously cool, neon-lit bistro. The short menu from chef Zac Gannat mixes fun and finesse in equal measure. A nduja scotch egg might lead to a pecorino-heavy veal tartare or sole in seaweed butter, with plats generally topping out at a reasonable €30. For dessert, flavour combinations get daring with their knockout caramel and stilton tartelette. Add in a smashing natural wine list (look out for Domaine du Petit Oratoire’s Jajatoès, an elegantly natural Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Viognier blend), and it’s easy to linger long into the evening, even if you’re perched on a stool overlooking the open kitchen. Outside, tables tightly squeezed onto the pavement in summer are all part of Lolo’s charm. Book ahead – and be sure not to confuse the restaurant with the original Lolo cave à manger, a 10-minute walk away.
Address: 53 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009 Paris
Website: instagram.com - @thesocialfood
5. Racines
Dish to order: Giant veal chop alla Milanese
Simone Tondo took over this beautiful restaurant – a tiled, glazed corner inside one of Paris’s 19th-century arcades – a decade after its inauguration as an influential néo-bistro and champion of natural wines. The plates are still ultra-seasonal and the wines juicy and low-intervention, but the flavours have turned towards the south, thanks to Tondo’s Sardinian origins and his admiration for Nonna’s recipes. Lunch and dinner, seven days a week, are chalked up on the blackboard: start with sublime finocchiona – homemade cured sausage with fennel seeds – and vitello tonnato, or the creamiest burrata, then choose between a giant veal chop alla Milanese, a piece of perfectly cooked fish, and masterful pasta. There’s no wine list as such, rather the kind ministrations of Stephanie Crockford, who runs the front of house and pours interesting regional Italians by the glass. Racines is a piece of Paris history and perennially popular; note that it only takes 20 minutes to walk here from the Gare du Nord.
Address: 8 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris
Website: racinesparis.com6. Mensae
Dish to order: the raviolis de gambas entiers
Thibault Sombardier’s table d’hôte, hidden on an unassuming residential street in the 19th near Jourdain, is rather special. Don’t let the low-key atmosphere throw you off: this is far more than a neighbourhood bistro. The simple decor – bare wood tables, spindle-backed chairs and big picture windows – only serves to let the plates shine. Ingredients are always front and centre, the seafood exceptional: razor clams swim in a buttery sauce spiked with chilli and topped with a pine nut breadcrumb; scallops sing atop a risotto de fregola accompanied by unexpected florets of romanesco; prawn dumplings (the raviolis de gambas entiers), each encasing a whole prawn, meet basil, freshly podded peas and a delicate bisque. Foams are used judiciously as a finishing veil, never technique for the sake of technique, while on the side, there are thick slabs of crusty sourdough to tear up and dredge through every last pool of sauce. Course after course, colours pop against handmade glazed ceramics. It’s fair to say Mensae is a bit of a closely guarded local favourite. Come at lunch for the excellent-value formule, when the atmosphere is at its most relaxed.
Address: 23 rue Melingue, 75019 Paris
Website: instagram.com
7. Early June
Dish to order: The recommendation of the day
The young owners of this wine bar and shop, a former wig emporium next to the Canal Saint-Martin, work hard to create a light and, in their words, joyful atmosphere. Like its more venerable vinous neighbour, Le Verre Volé, their natural wine list will have even the most ardent orange wine fans in raptures. –In the kitchen, Camille Machet and Victor Vautier host travelling chefs for several weeks or months, many launching much-lauded solo ventures across Europe. Depending on when you drop by, you could find yourself coinciding with the two-month residency of Swedish chef Joel Aronsson (ex-Fäviken) or sampling dishes imagined by Vietnamese-born Túbo Logier, who made a splash with his oyster agnolotti before going on to open Aster in Brussels. Sometimes, Early June acts as a staging ground for new projects; at others, it’s a space for chefs to experiment and let their creativity run free. Reservations are only taken for groups of four or more, so either turn up promptly for the first service at 6pm or after 8pm for the second. The bar itself is airy, with an open kitchen and concrete floors, as well as a few spots on the pavement to nab in, ahem, early June.
Address: 19 rue Jean Poulmarch, 75010 Paris
Website: early-june.fr- Joann Pai
8. Maison
Dish to order: Spider-crab bisque
Inside an ancient gabled shell of a building, incongruous amid streets dotted with tower blocks, this thoroughly enjoyable spot resembles an art installation (the offspring of Rachel Whiteread and Antony Gormley, perhaps) or a brickie’s dream after too many Pernods. Chef Sota Atsumi trained under Michelin-starred gods Joël Robuchon and Michel Troisgros before cooking at tiny, cool Vivant, then Clown Bar, where his duck pithivier with date and yuzu became emblematic of the bistronomie of the 2010s. Maison sees him turning away from shouty casual dining towards a more elevated experience, marked by warm, communicative service and a vividly seasonal, produce-led tasting menu. Lunch might kick off with intense, warming spider-crab bisque, then raw tuna with raw cream, kiwi and a bright turnip-top emulsion. Theatrical moments involving a pigeon dish in two episodes never feel overworked but rather generous and thrilling. Wines from the Alsace, Jura and Loire are listed alongside sensitive Burgundies and oxidative vins de voile. Single diners can eat at a counter facing the open kitchen under industrial pipes painted Pinot Noir red. Lunch is niftily paced and well priced, too. Maison is where the heart of contemporary Paris dining is right now.
Address: 3 rue Saint-Hubert, 75011 Paris
Website: maison-sota.com - Nicolas Lobbestael
9. PavYllon
Dish to order: Comté cheese soufflé
Yannick Alléno's Pavyllon celebrates the chef’s relaxed re-imagination of French fine dining, breaking down the distance between the kitchen and diners with an experimental approach that’s as likely to draw on Japanese techniques as Italian ingredients. The prices aren't as eye-watering as at his two-Michelin star sushi counter, L'Abysse, also in the Pavillon Ledoyen just off theChamps-Elysées, yet casual here still means cushioned chairs, exquisite glassware and counter seating to see the full theatrics in a kitchen awarded a Michelin star. Here's an indulgent way to round off a morning taking in the Petit Palais' latest exhibition. Delicate breadsticks dipped in artichoke sauce combine rustic France with an elevated Parisian flair and successfully set the tone, as does the Duval-Leroy Champagne from Vertus. The silky textured steamed Comté cheese soufflé leaves an indelible impression, as does the rich pigeon breast, artfully placed on a baguette slice. Creative twists on exalted French classics abound: black pudding and piglet rib; brill ‘millefeuille’; a spinach and smoked-cod-roe sandwich; sole chaud-froid with black truffle. Try the Château-Chalon, a yellow wine from the Jura in eastern France – a lighter consistency than sherry but the same thrilling kick – and the salted-caramel ice cream with Amarena cherries and roasted hazelnuts oozing out of a metal contraption and decorated at the table. Rosalyn Wikeley
Address: 8 Avenue Dutuit, 75008 Paris
Website: yannick-alleno.com - Mickael A. Bandassak
10. Septime
Dish to order: the tasting menu, with wine pairings
You simply can’t talk about the best restaurants in Paris without talking about Septime. It’s the one-Michelin-star that redefined the criteria back in 2014 – and has been near booked-out ever since. They did away with the pomp and circumstance of fine dining, switching white tablecloths for rough wooden two-tops and big Bordeauxs for natural wines, picking up an additional green star for their responsible, local-led sourcing and commitment to sustainable farming along the way. Lunch is five courses, supper is seven, each with a revelatory course-by-course wine pairing that might take you on a journey from the hallowed terroir of the Côtes de Nuits all the way to the slopes of Mount Etna. Each dish centres on just a few ingredients: meaty, barely seared tuna alongside a confit egg yolk; juniper-smoked beetroot enlivened by fermented red currants; asparagus bathed in a creamy nettle sabayon; scallops delicately balanced by slivers of kimchi. Each plate is only revealed as it’s brought to the table, the adventure unfolding over several hours. The only downside is that reservations open exactly 21 days ahead and go quickly. If you don’t manage to snag a table, you can still get a little taste of the Septime magic in their always-crowded cave across the road, where drinkers spill out onto the street with glasses of orange wine and pét nat come rain or shine.
Address: 80 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
Website: septime-charonne.fr
- Salomé Rateau
11. Le Truffaut
Dish to order: the tartare à l’anchois
A mention of Batignolles, the 17th arrondissement’s bougie almost-village, gets an instant nod of approval from every Parisian. Yet most visitors tend to barely give the quartier a second thought. It’s a shame, as spots like Le Truffaut are well worth the exploration. This is the newer, bigger sibling to Le Jourdain in the 20th and is run by the same young, energetic team who decided to take their winning combination of reasonable prices and superb cooking across the city. Le Truffaut is a buzzy, light-filled space, dominated by the clinking of glasses and laughter of good friends, but what really keeps folks coming back is the food. They’ve developed a treat of a menu featuring plenty of French classics (oeufs mayonnaise, chou farci, mousse au chocolat and so on) as well as elegant modern reinventions. Steak tartare gets a bold anchovy kick, and shoestring fries, a beautifully crunchy nest of kadaïf adds contrast to a petit pois velouté and sweet potato makes its way into the crème brulée for dessert. Dinner is incredible value at just €37 (£33) for three courses, although it’s a shame not to add on a dozen oysters in season. For drinks, the wine list is short but well-chosen, heavy on the Loire, Savoie and Rhône.
Address: 89 rue Truffaut, 75017 Paris
Website: restaurantletruffaut.com 12. EchizenSOBA TOGO
Dish to order: The seasonal soba dish alongside rice flour-coated fillets of mackerel
You may find your voice reduced to a whisper and discover an intense desire to meditate upon entering EchizenSOBA TOGO. The demure restaurant, hidden away on a side street off the Tuileries gardens, resembles a Japanese temple, with all-white décor and a long wooden communal table. Echizen specialises in soba (Japanese buckwheat noodles), handmade and hand-pulled in-house. As you slurp the broth from your brutalist ceramic bowl, pause occasionally, observing your fellow diners, each in a private reverie.
Address: 33 rue Saint-Roch, 75001, Paris
Website: facebook.com13. Pantobaguette
Dish to order: Fermented eggs with trout roe, samphire, and furikake
At Pantobaguette, conviviality is a promise and great food is a guarantee. Founded by a group of friends, Paul, Anto, Tom, Barth, and Gauthier (hence the name), this Franco-Japanese fusion tapas restaurant has an atmosphere all its own. Neon lights stud Pantobaguette’s walls and glow over the corner bar. Funky music wafts from a hidden record player (the chef also runs a record label), and waiters joyfully dance and swivel around their customers, pausing to recommend dishes and pair wines (and, sometimes, their favourite local spots around neighbourhood-y Jules Joffrin). The menu is unfailingly fun, running the gamut from takoyaki and elderflower tempura to sashimi with pickled strawberries and fennel. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner; come at lunch for their midi-only sando specials.
Address: 16 rue Eugène Sue, 75018, Paris
Website: pantobaguette.fr14. Les Enfants du Marché
Dish to order: moules de Camargue
You’ll find Michael Grosman's no-reservations and previously daytime-only counter-only spot among organic veg stalls, florists and to-go bento stands inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in the city. It’s a bit of an industry favourite – and the food is far more serious than the hip but draughty setting might imply. Pull up a stool and get ordering. Seafood should be first on the agenda, the sauce the highlight of their signature Camargue mussels à la marinière in a silky gorgonzola emulsion. Utterly magnificent red prawns come raw with caviar and a splash of cream, while razor clams find harmony with asparagus, pickled mustard grains and lime zest. Heading away from the ocean, you might find elegantly plated and oh-so-pink duck breast with a red wine reduction or an entire Mont d’Or, baked to molten perfection. At least a bottle (or two) of natural wine alongside is de rigeur. Market dining has never been so chic.
Address: 39 rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
Website: wixsite.com
15. Bistrot des Tournelles
Dish to order: poulette des Landes à la crème
Look no further if you’re searching for proof that traditional French cooking is in again. Few spots have been more talked about this year than Bistrot des Tournelles, a beautifully revived bistro tucked away just to the south of Place des Vosges. It’s the brainchild of Édouard Vermynck (ex-L’Entrée des Artistes) who has paired the wines of his home region, Beaujolais, with a menu of vintage classics. Behind the lacy curtains, the crowd might be cool, but dishes are big on nostalgia. Some, like the croque-monsieur with Prince de Paris, arguably the best ham in the country, need no introduction. The beautiful jambon also pops up in their cordon bleu, a French childhood favourite of breaded chicken stuffed with ham and cheese (here, a lovely comté). That’s before you get to the true big hitters: the poulette des Landes in a creamy sauce with morilles and the onglet with a sauce à l'échalote. Each comes with the side of your choice, mash, spinach or crisp, salty fries. For dessert, there are just three choices: chocolate mousse, crème brulée and tarte tatin. Could you ask for more?
Address: 6 rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris
Website: bistrotdestournelles.com16. Banoi
Dish to order: Summer roll “of the moment” with homemade nước mắm (fish sauce)
If Paris is a jewel box, Banoi is the tiny, beautiful gem within. Helmed by chef My-Ly Pham, Banoi is a homage to Pham’s Vietnamese family and roots (bà nôi, which means ‘grandmother’ in Vietnamese) and just so happens to be one of Paris’ best Vietnamese restaurants. You can tell each dish is made with warmth, love, and know-how; every menu item is one of My-Ly’s favourites, each served to her during her many trips to Southeast Asia with her grandmother. Vietnamese banh-mi tartlets, Chinese five-spice ribs, and Thai Tom Yum coconut soup are excellent, inventive dishes that transport you to another place… However, the most delicious, unforgettable dish is Banoi’s speciality: Vietnamese summer rolls (rouleaux in French), which pay particular honour to My-Ly’s grandmother.
Address: 129 rue Amelot, 75011, Paris
Website: banoi.fr- Florian Villain
The best classic restaurants in Paris
17. Le Servan
Dish to order: Paris Brest
Born in the Philippines and raised in Paris, sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha opened Le Servan in 2014 to much acclaim. And judging by the roaring mid-week lunch trade, the smart neighbourhood restaurant is as popular as ever. Having trained in the Michelin-starred kitchens of l'Astrance and l'Arpège, Tatiana focuses on refined small plates, infusing sustainably sourced French ingredients with flavours from Southeast Asia. The creative and unfussy menu changes frequently, but seafood always plays a big role; expect to find combinations like pan-fried scallops with spinach, bone marrow, smoked vinegar or raw langoustines with a vin jaune cream. They’re renowned for serving veal brain, often spiked with unexpected flavour combinations such as chilli, Tahitian lime, or gochujang butter. There’s a choice of French cheeses or a handful of desserts for afters, but the Paris Brest – a choux pastry ring filled with nutty praline cream – is a regular. Reservations are only possible via email or phone. Qin Xie
Address: 32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris
Website: instagram.com - Alamy
18. Salon de Thé de la Grande Mosquée de Paris
Dish to order: Mint tea and baklava
There’s nothing better than spending a sunny afternoon in this hidden tearoom and cafe in the 5th arrondissement. In a courtyard at the Grand Mosque, this tile-covered, sun-dappled oasis is complete with singing birds and friendly waiters (so friendly, in fact, that you’ll forget you’re in Paris). It’s located just opposite the botanical gardens and the National Museum of Natural History, so this is a great pit stop after a day of soaking up some culture. Order a selection of couscous and tagines for lunch, or opt for a shot of sweet mint tea with sugary baklava. Charlotte Davey
Address: 2bis Place du Puits de l'Ermite, 75005 Paris
Website: mosqueedeparis.net - Benoit Linero
19. Bouillon République
Dish to order: the giant profiterole with glace au lait et chocolat chaud
In an enormous two-floor, wood-panelled dining room off Place de la République, a slice of Parisian history comes to life. Waistcoated servers weave between tables, their trays laden with onion soup, bœuf bourguignon and enormous profiteroles drowning in chocolate sauce. Bouillon République, along with its smaller sibling Bouillon Pigalle, reimagines the rowdy, warm and affordable atmosphere of the 19th-century bouillon with aplomb. Except rather than a pastiche, this dining culture is very much alive, with queues for tables snaking along the street and reservations vanishing weeks ahead. Little surprise when a meal here is one of the cheapest (and most fun) you can find in Paris. Just come hungry. For little more than €20 (about £17.50), you can put away three courses and a glass of wine. They do old-school dishes the best: œufs en meurette (eggs poached in red wine); steak tartare with a mountain of fries; comforting enamelware bowls of saucisse purée (sausage and mash). Bring plenty of friends to order rosé by the three-litre jeroboam.
Address: 39 boulevard du Temple, 75003 Paris
Website: bouillonlesite.com
- @clubdesandouilles
20. Parcelles
Dish to order: gnocchis with beurre de sauge
Sarah Michielson and Bastien Fidelin have painstakingly restored this Marais bistro, preserving the character of its original interior – mosaic floors, old stone walls – by adding little more than grand, gold-framed mirrors and crisp white tablecloths. Fidelin’s passion for wine is just as much of a draw as the food, the cellar holding rare and cult bottles spanning Domaine de la Romanée-Conti to Ganevat. Dishes are fittingly elegant and beautifully presented: perhaps a meticulously assembled pâté en croûte to start, their version of vitello tonnato (thinly sliced veal in a caper and pickle sauce) or veal sweetbreads in a rich jus to follow. Unusually for Paris, there are also some stand-outs for non-meat eaters, including delicate gnocchi in sage butter. Expect to spend around €30-40 (about £26-£35) a plat and be seriously tempted to go big on the wine list.
Address: 13 rue Chapon, 75003 Paris
Website: parcelles-paris.fr 21. Buffet
Dish to order: Mackerel with daikon, cream and shiso
With a lineup of Lillet bottles in front of a mirrored bar and rustic wooden tables covered with gingham, Buffet couldn’t appear a more classic French bistro if it tried. But when it comes to the food, the €37 five-course tasting menu is anything but. Wine-wise, it’s natural and organic all the way, but you can bet the flavours are no less daring. Qin Xie
Address: 8 rue de la Main d'Or 75011 Paris
Website: restaurantbuffet.fr- Getty Images
22. La Coupole
Dish to order: Seafood platter
La Coupole is part of Montparnasse's artistic legacy, and dining here remains an experience. Even though it has lost its bohemian spirit, it remains a Parisian landmark, equally fitting as a backdrop for Chanel afterparties as long, lavish family lunches. In general, the food is so-so (although the oysters and other seafood are superb), but the setting is a treat. There's an undeniable whiff of glamour to the vast Art Deco interior, attracting Parisians and tourists and ensuring a lively atmosphere. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: 102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris
Website: lacoupole-paris.com 23. Le Train Bleu
Dish to order: the blanquette de veau
Le Train Bleu is a genuine Parisian landmark. A historic railway restaurant built above Gare du Lyon for the Universal Exhibition in 1901, its glittering, frescoed interior is rivalled only by Versailles’ hall of mirrors. You’d expect such pomp and circumstance to yield poor cooking and faux authenticity, yet thanks to the culinary genius of Michel Rostang, Le Train Bleu is once again une très bonne adresse. A meal here is not cheap (count on at least €70 a head for food) but it’s the stuff Parisian memories are made of, chandeliers sparkling overhead as you’re sequestered in a midnight-blue leather booth. The menu is somewhere between French haute cuisine (think pigeon and foie gras mousse or cod with black truffles) and refined traditional cooking. There’s something particularly decadent about tucking into a roast leg of lamb or blanquette de veau, served at the table in a cast-iron pot, in this setting. Lounges hidden off to the side of the main dining rooms and stairs leading up from the station itself keep the restaurant’s original purpose ever-present.
Address: Gare de Lyon (Hall 1), place Louis-Armand, 75012 Paris
Website: le-train-bleu.com
24. Le Grand Bain
Dish to order: Lardo-draped gougères
Bristol-born chef Edward Delling-Williams, previously of London stalwart St John, met French sommelier Edouard Lax when working at similarly nose-to-tail Paris spot Au Passage. These days, he might be more focused on his Normandy bistro, The Presbytere, but this tumble-down tapas joint in a Belleville side alley remains one of the city’s must-visit neo-bistros (one that inadvertently influenced Salon and Levan in London’s similarly up-and-coming south). The food may be more serious than the double act behind the venture, but the menu is fun, too: tomahawk lamb chops served with nduja and chard; endive leaves for dunking in a scamorza fondue; cheesy gougères draped with melted lardo; and a swirl of porchetta with ceps. The vegetables, sourced from organic underground farm La Caverne in the 18th arrondissement, are among the best, used in dishes such as fresh peas with Korean gochujang-paste mayonnaise and technicolour carrots dressed with nuts. Come for the cheesecake, but return to try the pastries from Le Petit Grain, its sister bakery down the road. Tabitha Joyce
Address: 14 Rue Dénoyez, 75020 Paris
Website: legrandbainparis.com25. Aux Bons Crus
Dish to order: L’entrecôte béarnaise
Les Routiers restaurants are more commonly found among the rolling hills of the French countryside; the label was invented for lorry drivers to distinguish the roadside restaurants that offered truly gourmet meals at accessible prices. Today, Aux Bons Crus is one of a rare few Parisian establishments to display the iconic sign proudly. You won’t find many hauliers here in the hip 11th, but you will find a hearty meal, charmingly old-fashioned red-check tablecloths and welcoming, down-to-earth service. Especially after a long day of sightseeing, there’s no better combination than the frisée aux lardons with a poached egg to start, followed by a slab of entrecôte that begs to be smothered with their deliciously unctuous béarnaise. Desserts are equally decadent: milles-feuilles, rum babas and crêpes suzette.
Address: 54 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 75011 Paris
Website: auxbonscrus.fr- Getty Images
26. Le Chateaubriand
Dish to order: The tasting menu
Basque-born chef Iñaki Aizpitarte has been called a revolutionary and is something of a celebrity these days, making it almost miraculous that he is still cooking at this time-worn local bistro whose spartan decor has remained unchanged for decades. Lunch (€65), on Fridays only, is a simpler, more conventional affair than dinner (€95), which is when Aizpitarte lets his imagination run riot, with smeared avocado sauces, beetroot foams, and everything deconstructed to within an inch of its life. This is the kind of avant-garde stuff that provokes involuntary gasps when it is placed before diners. Ingredients may come from Japan, Morocco or Spain, but the dishes are grounded in classic French techniques. The wine list is particularly good, with many bottles available at sister spot Le Dauphin, a mirror-lined tapas bar a few doors down. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris
Website: lechateaubriand.net27. Amagat
Dish to order: Iberian ham croqueta
Taxi lovers, beware! You won’t be getting to Amagat by car. At the far end of an alleyway tucked up against the walls of Père Lachaise Cemetery sits Amagat (which translates to “hidden” in Catalan), a Spanish oasis inspired by Catalunya’s bodegas and taverns. Once you stumble upon the hidden eatery, be prepared for an excellent array of tapas, each dish a modern departure from their classic Spanish and Catalan ancestors. Start with marinated anchovies and a plate of jamón ibérico, then move onto clams with a zippy salsa verde or a rich, earthy dish of confit pig cheeks and morcilla (blood sausage). Whether you sit at the marble countertop and watch the restaurant’s talented chefs work their magic or have a more intimate evening amidst candlelight in the gorgeous green courtyard, Amagat will surely delight. The wait for a table can be long, so reservations are highly recommended.
Address: 23 Villa Riberolle, 75020, Paris
Website: amagatparis.fr - Teddy Wolstenholme
28. L’Ogre
Dish to order: Côte de boeuf (for two)
Deliciously tucked away in the 16th arrondissement, L’Ogre is a meat-lover’s triumph. Foie gras or smoky bone marrow are followed by enormous cuts of perfectly pink côte de boeuf, wagyu or black angus to share, sliced at the table and served on wooden boards with the fluffiest, crunchiest chips. The whole setup is delightfully French; vintage wine bottles line up along the central zinc bar, wonky candles drip onto red-and-white-checked tablecloths, and a fumoir cigar room is tucked away at the back. If you’re here for supper, try to bag a table beside the window – you’ll end up with a ringside seat for the Eiffel Tower’s hourly light show. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: 1 Avenue de Versailles, 75016 Paris, France
Website: restaurantlogre.fr29. Amarante
Dish to order: foie gras
Christophe Philippe’s Amarante celebrates French cooking as it should be: ingredient-focused, rich and traditional. He knows his audience. If you like your meat lean, use of butter restrained and steak well-done, his website warns, this isn’t the bistro for you. Luckily for those of us whose eyes sparkle at the mention of foie gras and fraise de veau (part of the calf’s intestinal membrane), that means there’s a slightly higher chance of bagging one of Amarante’s 21 red leather seats. Not all dishes are big on offal, but all are big on flavour. You might savour a tender beef cheek with sweet, fresh peas, roast chicken with celeriac or pigeon and boudin noir (black pudding). Follow their suggestions for a unique bottle to match your choices, and you won’t be disappointed. You can walk off lunch, or dinner, with a stroll around the neighbouring Port de l'Arsenal.
Address: 4 rue Biscornet, 75012 Paris
Website: amarante.paris30. Robert et Louise
Dish to order: leg of lamb
It would be easy to walk straight past Robert et Louise’s unassuming entrance on the Marais’s Rue Vieille du Temple if it wasn’t for the smell of wood-fired meat wafting from the red gingham curtains. This restaurant has been here for more than 60 years, and although the eponymous Robert and Louise have moved on, their daughter Pascale and her husband still run the show. Inside, copper pans hang from wonky shelves above a huge stone fireplace in the centre, and mismatched wooden tables become communal at busy times. This restaurant might be featured in every travel guide going, but it remains low-key, rustic French cooking at its best; start with a plate of garlicky snails before beef rib, entrecôte, lamb leg or veal, grilled and salted over a smouldering wood fire. Portions are hearty – and reasonably affordable for the Marais location. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: 64 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Website: robertetlouise.com - @LucileDerveaux
31. Brasserie Martin
Dish to order: poulet rôti à la broche
The Nouvelle Garde group have hit it out of the park again with this boisterous brasserie at the heart of the 11th. What could appear to be style over substance is just great branding: everything is homemade, from the mayo to the choux pastry in their Paris-Brest, and ingredients sourced directly from their network of producers. Spit-roasted meats are their signature, turning the ultimate post-market French indulgence – a poulet rôti (roast chicken) in a rich, salty and herby jus – into a restaurant experience. There’s also roast pork with dauphinois potatoes and lamb with flageolet beans, all to share, and Champagne to sip from cut-glass vintage-inspired saucers while you wait. If you’d prefer to stay with the time-honoured entrée-plat formula, start cold with taramasalata and crispy toasts or their cognac-laced terrine de campagne. There’s always a vegetarian main, as well as brasserie stalwarts such as choucroute garnie and a simply grilled fish of the day. Homemade ice cream or lemon sorbet, and perhaps a shot of limoncello, bring the meal to a refreshing close.
Address: 24 rue Saint-Ambroise, 75011 Paris
Website: nouvellegardegroupe.com32. Crêperie Breizh
Dish to order: Galette jambon cru (prosciutto from the Aldudes Valley, sunny-side-up egg, and Comté cheese) and a glass of dry cider
Usually, croissants, coq au vin, and Calvados hoard the spotlight when one thinks about French cuisine, but at Breizh Café, the humble galette steals the show. A Parisian favourite with an ever-growing number of locations on either side of the Seine, Breizh (the Breton word for the French region Bretagne, or Brittany) is the reference for savoury Breton galettes, made with buckwheat flour (and naturally gluten-free!). Each restaurant has its own unique menu, but you can expect crunchy-edged classics such as ham, egg and Comté alongside Japanese-inspired combos featuring wakamé or shiitaké mushrooms (Breizh Café also have an outpost in Tokyo). Pair your dish with any of Breizh’s excellent ciders, sold either by glass or bottle and save room for pudding – a sweet crêpe made with organic wheat flour from Brittany.
Address: 109 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003, Paris (in the Marais)
Website: breizhcafe.com
- MARINE BILLET
33. Le Collier de la Reine
Dish to order: oysters and a dry martini
Lupin fans, you read that right: this restaurant takes its name from the scandalous theft of a diamond necklace by Countess de la Motte in 1786, which later inspired the novel by Alexandre Dumas. That’s where the history lesson ends. Le Collier de la Reine is the latest invention from the Savoir Vivre group (also behind Déviant and Vivant), and this restaurant-meets-seafood bar is a spot to see and be seen. Perch at the bar or take a booth in the restaurant proper, where mirrors and stainless steel set the tone. The vibe is cool, not cosy; icy shellfish platters are the order of the day. Fruits de mer change with the seasons, but you can’t go wrong with incontournables like crab, langoustines, oysters, clams and sea urchins. To wash them down, a menu of natural wines meets an unexpectedly good cocktail list, featuring a solid vodka martini and negroni as well as a more adventurous tequila, nduja and smoked salt combo for the brave. There are some heavier, meatier plats, too – including a veal schnitzel and côte de boeuf – but the seafood is the reason to come.
Address: 57 rue Charlot, 75003 Paris
Website: instagram.com - victor bellot
34. Nonos at Hôtel de Crillon
Dish to order: roast of the day
Nonos is tucked away in one of Paris’ most romantic spots, Hôtel de Crillon. The interior is palatial, and an ornate hallway leads guests into the hotel’s newest culinary experience. The atmosphere immediately shifts upon entering Nonos – low lighting, mid-century touches and pops of red are the names of the game here. Michelin-starred chef Paul Pairet is at the helm. With a French-style grill at the heart of his menu, Pairet focuses on creating an informal atmosphere accompanied by creative yet classic dishes. We start with Pairet’s take on Tzatziki paired with fresh focaccia and cheese soufflé that melts in your mouth. We indulge in the roast of the day, which is rich in flavour from the Teriyaki marinade and perfectly cooked. Pudding is a tart raspberry soufflé that I like to think of as a fluffy cloud of tastiness. When you’re done, be sure to head out and walk down to the Seine to take in the dazzling lights of the Eiffel Tower at night.
Address: 10 Pl. de la Concorde, 75008 Paris, France
Website: Nonos & Comestibles - Virginie Garnier
35. La Poule Au Pot
Dish to order: Charolais beef fillet
It is said that the previous owner of this Les Halles institution anointed star chef Jean-François Piège as his successor, having snubbed every other approach. So it was that much-garlanded Piège, who runs a handful of restaurants in the area with his wife Elodie, took on the historic doll’s-house-like building, ripping out the café curtains and old wallpaper, giving it all a good scrub and polishing the little brass plaques that name-drop all the music stars who have nibbled the baba au rhum here (Motörhead, Tricky, Nu Shooz). But for the most part, La Poule au Pot feels exactly as it always did, preserved for the nation, and the menu of cuisine bourgeoise, plated up family-style, is intact, if elevated in terms of both produce and pricing. Classic onion soup is served daily, even in a heatwave, and snails, frogs’ legs and bone marrow make consistent appearances. Big-hitting mains include Charolais beef fillet and fabulous poached chicken; puddings are flawless, generous, old-school treats. La Poule au Pot is comfortingly beyond cool, yet only retro on paper, thanks to the dynamism of team Piège.
Address: 9 rue Vauvilliers, 75001 Paris
Website: lapouleaupot.fr - Alamy
36. Le Bistro Paul Bert
Dish to order: Scallops followed by steak au poivre
Rue Paul Bert will always be one of the most talked-about restaurant streets in Paris, home to Sylvain Sendra's fantastic, if tiny, bistro Le Temps au Temps; the retro-funky Unico, in a preserved 1970s butcher's shop; and Bistrot Paul Bert, the pick of the bunch. The fact that it was once a butcher's shop and then a bar (judging by the motley floorings and tiles, it has seen various other incarnations in its long lifetime) only adds to the atmosphere. The presentation of dishes is ultra-simple, but a kitchen so obviously on top of its game and so well served by its suppliers can get away with it. The milk-fed pork, for instance, is slow-cooked with apricots, prunes and almonds until spoon-tender and served with meltingly soft fried potatoes; steaks come swimming in a pool of pepper sauce, a mountain of golden fries on the side; and the signature dessert is the Paris-Brest, a colossal ring of choux pastry with a rich, praline-cream filling. The three-course lunch for €24 is one of the city's great dining bargains. Next door is the BPB's sister seafood restaurant, the equally seductive, though necessarily pricier, L'Ecailler du Bistrot. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: 18 rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris
Website: instagram.com
- Alban Couturier
37. Elmer
Dish to order: the agneau de lait to share
Elmer, just like the fictional elephant of the same name, is rather remarkable. Modern French dining is done differently here, with sharp yet truly warm service, super-pretty plating and a spotlight-lit dining room decorated with little more than a few accents of yellow-and-grey geometric tiling. It couldn’t feel further from the nearby chaos of Place de la République. Chef Simon Horwitz, who arrived at Elmer after stints at Pierre Gagnaire and adventures in Melbourne, Kyoto and Lima, changes the menu regularly. Expect clean, fresh flavours and plenty of artistry. At lunch, the entrée-plat-dessert combo is a must. You might begin with a delicate beetroot ravioli, move on to skate wing meunière and finish with a citrusy financier crowned by a caramel tuile and paired with a lemon-tarragon sorbet. In the evening, meat takes centre stage. A duck heart tart is a perfect opener before the beautifully roasted agneau de lait (milk-fed suckling lamb), served to share between two. It’s also well worth sneaking in a cheese course before dessert. If you want to go all-out, you can privatise the table du chef with friends; bespoke menus start at €75 (about £65).
Address: 30 rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003 Paris
Website: elmer-restaurant.fr