A beach is to a holiday as custard is to apple pie: essential. That feeling of flaxen sand between our toes, the rhythmic gargling of the sea and the distinctive, tousled updrafts of salty ocean breeze are exactly the backdrop we envisage when we think of a sunshine-filled European break. The small snag is, so does everyone else, and during peak seasons, carving out a spot on the shore to set out our picnic or recline with our holiday read can feel like an impossible feat of engineering.
But the story at some of the best alternative beaches across Europe reads a little differently. Of course, across the sunniest months, we can’t guarantee that a gaggle of parasols shading similarly in-the-know tourists won’t already be set up, but these beaches aren’t the big hitters, and so are likely to be a little calmer. From the cerulean waters of Karpas Peninsula in Portugal (a popular nesting ground for sea turtles) to cave-clad Ramla Bay in Malta and beyond, these are our favourite seaside spots for when you’re keen to not follow the crowd.
Karpas Peninsula, Cyprus
An isolated backwater just a few years ago, North Cyprus has weaved its way onto tourists’ lists thanks to the increasing number of daily flights and the myriad new crossing points. However, with that being said, this northern side of the island is still much calmer and quieter than the south, and the Karpas Peninsula – where pristine Mediterranean waters nestle up against honey-hued sands – encapsulates that. Of particular note here is The Golden Beach, a 4km stretch of coastline that runs from Galunopetra cape on the east to Jyles cape on the southwest, with distinctive sand dunes extending up to 500 metres.
Where to stay: Karpaz Gate Marina Hotel is a popular choice among the discerning yachting community who moor up by the Peninsula. Of particular note here is the Marina Beach Club with its own infinity pool, private beach section with bookable cabanas, watersports and myriad family facilities.
Where to eat: Even if you aren’t staying at Karpaz Gate, it’s still worth booking a table at their Beach Club Restaurant. The restaurant's tables look directly out from a veranda onto the sea, and a beachside snooze is just a few steps away.
Ramla Bay, Malta
Separated from Malta by just a small channel but worlds away in terms of pace, the calm island of Gozo is renowned for its coastline. You might think, then, how can one find any alternative beaches here? Well, let us introduce you to Ramla Bay and its distinctive reddish-hued sands on the north-east coast. Nestled between the bays of Marsalforn and San Blas, the warm waters are calm by day and the sunsets a spectacle by night.
Where to stay: Ta’Cenc’s unique brand of eco-friendly luxury is immediately enchanting. Think: charming suites and trulli, a wellness spa and two swimming pools, all nestled within grounds rich with flora and fauna.
Where to eat: A lively atmosphere, creative cocktails and harbourside views are all on offer at one80 Kitchen at Mgarr Yacht Marina, fresh fish and authentic Maltese dishes served alongside views of returning fisherman and the comings and goings of the picturesque harbour.
Betina Špilja, Dubrovnik, Croatia
We must caveat before we begin that Betina Cave Beach is not a soft-sand beach like the others in this roundup (we know, shock horror), but it does boast an extra attribute that others don’t have either: it’s a beach within a cave. Hidden within the rocks, this pebbly stretch of coast is unusually shaped and is lapped by crystal-clear waters. Because it cannot be reached by land, it is never crowded with bathers, either.
Where to stay: Inside a meticulously restored 16th-century stone building encircled by Dubrovnik’s characterful old town, St. Joseph’s is much-loved by discerning travellers who want to embrace romance, privacy and authenticity during their stay. There is definite style here, though none of it pretentious, and each suite has its own kitchenette to offer freedom to all who stay.
Where to eat: With reimagined traditional Croatian dishes and classic cocktails, Lucin Kantun, with its open (uncannily homelike) kitchen, chic outdoor terrace and tucked away location in Dubrovnik old town, is a must-dine.
Sithonia Cape, Halkidiki, Greece
With sea lungs flanking either side of this open beach, the wild Sithonia Cape juts out of the southern end of Sithonia Peninsula and culminates in a gorse-covered islet. Removed from the resorts of Halkidiki is this stretch of shore, solace is to be found here in abundance.
Where to stay: There isn’t an abundance of accommodation close to the cape, though around 50 minutes drive away you’ll find Ekies All Senses Resort. Think: barefoot luxury, an all-natural method and hammocks - perfect for sipping ouzo - stretched out on the bleached sands.
Where to eat: Panorama Kalamitsi, a short drive from Sithonia Cape, is authentic, well-loved by locals and rustic in an idyllic sense. There’s no website but if you turn up, the welcoming staff can often slide in an extra table during peak hours.
Plage d’Hatainville, Normandy, France
France is a veritable smorgasbord of high-end beaches, from the glamorous shores of the Côte D’Azur to the seemingly unending sandy stretches of Brittany; it’s unlikely though, that many tourists will have Plage d’Hatainville – one of the largest and yet quietest beaches around the town of Barneville-Carteret – in their sights when travelling. An easy meander from the town, the beach is more suited to a ‘wander and explore’ type of visit, rather than a stay all day-style shore, which makes it all the more special.
Where to stay: Overlooking the fishing port, Hotel La Marine offers guests breakfast with a seaview, downtime on the terrace and bright, sunny rooms with relaxation in mind.
Where to eat: Located on the renowned Carteret beach, sheltered by Cap de Carteret, La Potinière offers direct access from the terrace to the sea, and a buzzy feel late into the night.
Matsi Beach, Estonia
The 20th-century town of Pärnu is famed for its health spas, and nothing is instantly more relaxing and reinvigorating than that whip of fresh sea air. Enter secluded Matsi Beach, flanked by sand dunes and a bewitching coastal pine forest. It’s calm, picturesque, and one of the only sandy beaches in the area.
Where to stay: Originally built as a rectory in 1696, this historic building in the centre of Pärnu is now filled with a sophisticated boutique hotel, Boutique Hotel Rosenplänter. The intriguing interiors here pay homage to the building’s past, as well as wider local history and tales of times past.
Where to eat: There are no bells and whistles at Steffani, an old-timey, relaxed daytime diner in the heart of Pärnu, but there is an eclectic menu and locals setting the world to rights.
Riserva Vendicari, Sicily
The seemingly boundless sands of Riserva Vendicari stretch out at the edge of a protected national park, also home to a clutch of enchanting coves, rugged, undulating landscape and, best of all, very few sunbathers.
Where to stay: Once a Sicilian farm, Casa Vendicari is now an authentic and stylish boutique hotel, mere steps from the shores of Vendicari Beach. In fact, it is the only hotel immersed in the reserve, surrounded by uncontained and uncontaminated nature.
Where to eat: With tables scattered beneath olive trees, Agriturismo Il Baglietto also sits within the boundaries of the nature reserve, serving typical Sicilian fish dishes.
Cala Sardinera, Costa Blanca
When we think of the Costa Blanca, a 200 km stretch of coastline along the Mediterranean, we don’t think of alternative. However, Cala Sardinera isn’t your usual tourist trap. This wild beach with its coarse sand enjoys shelter beneath the Cap Prim headland and is reached via an enchanting hike through pine trees, clusters of rosemary, and other herbaceous plant life.
Where to stay: Casa Babel, in the small hillside town of Villalonga, at the foot of the Safor Mountains, is an 18th-century mansion with just eight rooms (each with four-poster beds).
Where to eat: Named after the owner’s grandma, Tula occupies a cosy space on the Playa del Arenal in Jávea. It serves honest, unpretentious dishes using seasonal ingredients in a fine-dining setting.